"Sn210" (sn210)
04/11/2014 at 16:22 • Filed to: None
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"Sn210" (sn210)
04/11/2014 at 16:22 • Filed to: None | 3
| 25 |
He got off his rat rod kick and bought a second motorcycle instead late last year. Now he's thinking about Corvettes. He's found a nice original '71 C3 for sale and he's tasked me with doing some homework on them. How extensive is your classic Corvette knowledge, Oppo?
What do you think? What should we look for? NPoCP? Let me hear it
http://southcoast.craigslist.org/cto/4417623798…
Vince-The Roadside Mechanic
> Sn210
04/11/2014 at 16:25 |
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$5000 is what I would pay
RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> Sn210
04/11/2014 at 16:28 |
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I hear that some early C3s are rats' nests electrically speaking. However, as a '71, you're clear in terms of emissions garbage, pretty much. The pre-'74s have more weenie body bushings compared to later ones, but I don't think they're hard to replace. The mechanicals, outside the rear suspension and some other bits, are straightforward easy to maintain 'Merica GM parts shelf stuff.
I think this guy is being ridiculous with "NUMBERS MATCHING !!1!" with a car that isn't too much rare in any way - that being said, it looks solid from what I see, and what bedragglement it has can be overcome pretty easily for less than the difference from an absolutely cherry example. NP, pretty solidly.
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Sn210
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
04/11/2014 at 16:30 |
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Awesome, thanks for the info! I'm curious to see what it looks like in person. Yeah I'm worried this guy thinks he's got a museum piece because it's original and says "corvette" on it, but I don't think $8500 is too bad of a price
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RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> Vince-The Roadside Mechanic
04/11/2014 at 16:31 |
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I've shopped them not too long ago. I think he's in the odd position of thinking his car is worth more than the "average example" but at the same time not knowing what an "average example" is worth - some out there pretty average cars go for quite pricey. $5k would be a deal, but I don't think the owner's # is too far off.
Party-vi
> Sn210
04/11/2014 at 16:32 |
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Here's a price guide from Hagerty. More than likely it's the high mileage and driver-condition that has they guy asking for so little. Don't buy it without inspecting it or driving it. Check the frame and body mounts for rust, and check the fiberglass for any repairs (tip: run your finger tips up under the edge of the wheel wells - they should be smooth). The engines are easy to work on but if the body/frame are shot it's going to drain your dad's bank account to get them fixed.
MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner
> Sn210
04/11/2014 at 16:34 |
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I'm sure he knows already but rule #1 for classic car buying is to get a VIN decoder sheet to make sure it matches up correctly.
One guy said 5k on here already but I'm kind of surprised it's priced as low as it is even though it's clearly rough. The trick is finding out which version of the V8 it has (I'm guessing smalles/slowest due to hood design) and checking underneath the car for rust damage on components because, of course, fiberglass body.
Most on here don't find the auto to be a + but investment wise in can be, they were a higher cost "luxo" item back then not a standard option like it is today.
They're really cool cars and easy to go fast in!
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Sn210
> Party-vi
04/11/2014 at 16:35 |
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cool, thanks. He's always good about checking the frames. Know of any weak spots in particular?
crowmolly
> Sn210
04/11/2014 at 16:36 |
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Sorry but this comes from a pet peeve and seething rage:
NUMBERS MATCHING MEANS ALL THE NUMBERS.
Engine must have the VIN stamp on it, matching the VIN.
Trans must have the VIN stamp on it, also matching the VIN.
The heads, intake, carb, distributor, exhaust manifolds, and rear axle must have the correct casting numbers and date codes that are within the appropriate range for the production date of the vehicle. The wheels must have the correct stamping marks.
You can hit up the NCRS for information on the VIN but value comes from having the original parts.
I would be careful and check for frame rot. This car is an MA car.
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Party-vi
> Sn210
04/11/2014 at 16:37 |
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At the body mounts mostly. You can usually tell the condition by checking the suspension components from under the car. I would strongly suggest he spend some point on his back under the car checking it out, or pay a mechanic an hours labor and have it gone over for a pre-purchase inspection. $100 is cheaper than $8,500.
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Party-vi
> crowmolly
04/11/2014 at 16:41 |
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I think in-general when listing a car, "numbers matching" means the car has the original engine block and transmission. The carb and distributor don't matter, considering most of those were swapped by owners anyway (along with exhaust manifolds but those are rarer to find now).
camaroboy68ss
> Sn210
04/11/2014 at 16:42 |
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These are great cars, but some things to watch out for. The biggest thing is the bird cage for rust. It's hard to really inspect it but on a unrestored car it's a must because you could have a wet noodle on your hands.
Look over the body really well he claims it has never been hit but don't ever trust that. A no hit Vette vs a hit and correctly repaired Vette can be thousands of dollars difference.
Same thing on the engine #s matching motor cars are considerably worth more over a non #s matching car.
From the pics the paint looks really faded and has no shine, some of the door gaps look a little off so possible red flag.
The interior is super dirty and being an auto car hurts its value.
No pics of the motor raises a lot if questions to me because that usually the big decision point for me on if its even worth looking at in person.
Overall I think it's a good project Vette that could be potentially hiding some big issues. I don't know about your area but that's in the ballpark on price for where I am. A fresh paint job and new interior and probably a good deal of work under the hold could see a 25-29k Vette
JGrabowMSt
> Sn210
04/11/2014 at 16:44 |
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i know someone with a number matching 76 vette with some minor tasteful mods under the hood that can be put back to factory in a day. Down to the original tires.
Find out if it has a radiator problem. Do it before you buy it. You will have to cut part of the car to replace it. If youre concerned about that, know about it now.
The C3 is totally worth it, and i love the look of the car. They arent powerful, amd werent built to be either.
I dont know much about the autos though, the manual trans is a little finnicky.
lone_liberal
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
04/11/2014 at 16:49 |
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Most retail numbers I see for 69-72 C3s are in the $25k-$35k region but those are usually very clean. If this thing isn't full of rust or bad fiberglass I'd say it's a deal. Have you seen different prices?
jmaseV8
> Sn210
04/11/2014 at 16:51 |
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Check out May edition of Classic Motorsports.
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crowmolly
> Party-vi
04/11/2014 at 17:02 |
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In general that's what's meant. But to somebody looking to buy an authentic vehicle it matters. One of the reasons why "factory original" cars are worth so much is because they are actually factory original. If "numbers matching" was enough then build sheets would not be such a massive deal in the Chevy world.
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RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> lone_liberal
04/11/2014 at 17:10 |
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I've seen ones that are quite sharp, but either refreshed a decade or more ago, or with paint blemishes/other roughness, or minor mechanical issues, or rebuilt non-professionally in the low teens still. Cheaper than what you're looking at, more pricey than this. Shopping this against collector contemporaries, it's still looking like a good deal indeed. You'd be surprised how much a bit of sat-too-long, dull option package, or wear/miles-related general funk seems to take off what a car is "worth", though. A big part of this one might be a good-from-far-but-far-from-good paint job - $4k+ of value difference right there, + a couple grand in mechanic bills and parts, and it adds up to that middle or low teens price tag pretty quick. A friend of my dad's had a mid-years C3 that he got in the high single $k's a while back, with mechanical grumbles.
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crowmolly
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
04/11/2014 at 17:17 |
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Vacuum system can be a bitch too. Those hoses and fittings get old and decrepit.
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crowmolly
> Party-vi
04/11/2014 at 17:18 |
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Body mounts are a big one, as are the rear control arm pockets.
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RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> crowmolly
04/11/2014 at 17:19 |
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Fortunately, though, it's a '71. I'd be more scared of the fully-developed EGR tomfoolery on one a bit later. Then again, what do I know? If I were to buy a Vette, it'd be an early C3 to have as a driver, not to hoard somewhere pretending it were something it wasn't. "Things that don't work and are pointless" with that sort of car are among the first to go, authenticity be damned.
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camaroboy68ss
> crowmolly
04/11/2014 at 17:28 |
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I don't think they stamped vin in the trannys. I've never seen a vin stamp on either a th350 (what this car probably has) or a Muncie. I though it was again the date code and a specific date range to be right.
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crowmolly
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
04/11/2014 at 17:29 |
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My first step, if it truly is numbers matching, is to pull the engine and everything associated with it and mothball it in the shop. Then put in a fresh motor free of the early 70's shenanigans and 60's tech.
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crowmolly
> camaroboy68ss
04/11/2014 at 17:31 |
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There is 100% a VIN stamp on a Muncie.
And this is a TH400:
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camaroboy68ss
> crowmolly
04/11/2014 at 17:38 |
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now I have to go home and look at the three Muncies on the floor and clean and look at the one in my 68 camaro
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crowmolly
> camaroboy68ss
04/11/2014 at 22:10 |
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Do it, you never know what you've got. Sometimes it's a rare piece that's worth some bucks to the right crowd. Same thing with blocks.
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camaroboy68ss
> crowmolly
04/11/2014 at 23:43 |
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oh I know what I have in blocks, got a bunch of different small blocks sitting.